Film Test Summary
Updated December 14, 2004
Since I first published film test data in 2002, several films have become unavailable or changed by
the manufacturers. This update reflects a few added films, and lists which ones are no longer available
(highlighted in red below). The newest films are Konica Centuria400 (acceptable) and FujiSHQ200 (poor).
There is no perfect film for astrophotography. These test results show that the popular films used
for Astro photos are the best available. Hypering helps, but doesn’t come close to
eliminating reciprocity failure. Interestingly, hypering affects some film layers at different rates;
partial hypering may work on one layer and not on another. Long-term freezer storage of PJ400
hypered seems to increase the hypered effect. This is a big surprise, and needs more
investigation with other films (a necessarily long process). All hypering was done at 30°C
or at 50°C. These lab tests eliminate the sky conditions and telescope optics as factors in
comparing films. When sky conditions come into play, the results could be quite different.
Future tests will also look at Tech Pan.
These film tests were conducted to evaluate currently available (2002-2004) color negative 35mm films
for long exposures for deep sky astrophotography. I used Red (660nm), Green (565nm) and Blue
(468nm) LEDs illuminating a white paper target. All exposures were the same total illumination,
using neutral density filters and lens f-stops for exposure times from 1 second to 4 hours-34minutes
(16,384 sec = 2^14 sec). The negatives were scanned with the same scanner settings. Intensity
readings were made at the same locations on each negative using the Photoshop readout tool
for Red, Green and Blue components. These tests include progressive hypering in 12 hour
increments @ 30°C@3psig using Lumicon forming gas. Hypering is noted by H0=unhypered,
H12=hypered for 12 hours, H1450=hypered 14 hours @ 50°C.
Recently Kodak changed the Royal Gold 200 and 400 films. The new RG200 lost a bit of red
sensitivity compared to the old film, and it requires a lot longer time to hyper (3x to 4x). It must
be hypered until the rebate color just changes to get the most out of it. RG 400 was also changed
but I haven't tested it yet. Kodak also announced that it is discontinuing Supra 400.
This is a summary of this test series results for color negative film. It is a little difficult to describe
the characteristics of a film in only 5 or 6 words because these films have varying response at 1
second, 17 minutes, and 4-1/2 hours. I biased my opinions by depending more on the longer
exposures. I tried to put them in order as I see them, with the best at the top of the list. I used three
ratings for most of the films (Good-Acceptable-Poor). I have one more category – Conditional –
because some films might be very useful for certain sky objects that have more blue or green light
rather than red.
The ratings are based on the levels of the bar graphs for each film and exposure. The best films
have a reasonably even color level across the red-green and blue, and have the highest light sensitivity.
Old Royal Gold 200 H36 Good/Great Needs Hyper Rebate Change, more B&G than PPF
New
RG 200 H1450 Good+ Needs Hyper Rebate Change, more B&G than PPF
PJ 400 H12 4-22mth old Good + Slightly better than fresh hypered
PPF 400 H0-H12 Good + Outstanding for unhypered film, hypering helps little
Old RG 400 H0-36 Good + Outstanding unhypered, hypering looses short sens.
PJ 400 H12 Fresh Good + Very even colors, needs hypering
Supra 400 H0-H31 Good + Outstanding for unhypered film, hypering helps little
LE 400 H0-H48 Good Slightly less than Supra, hypering doesn’t help
Supra 800 H36 Conditional + Very blue/green –Comet, Gal. & Reflection Nebula?
Portra 800 H24 Conditional Very blue/green –Comet, Gal. & Reflection Nebula?
Agfa Optima II 400 H36 Conditional - Very green –Comet, Galaxy & Reflection Nebula?
Royal Gold 100 H36 Acceptable+ About 12 stop less than Supra400 for long exposures
KonicaCenturia400 H0 Acceptable About 1/2 stop less than Supra400, very low blue-green (OIII)
Portra 800 H0 Acceptable Low reds, green & blue are good
Old Royal Gold 200 H0 Acceptable About like hypered Royal Gold 100
Fuji NPH 400 H0-H80 Acceptable About 1/2 stop less than Supra400, no hypering effect
Agfa Optima II 400 H0 Acceptable - About 1 stop less than Supra400
Fuji Superia 400 H0-H36 Poor Good green, very low red & blue
PJ 400 H0 Poor Very even colors, very low sensitivity
Fuji SHQ 200 H0 Poor Some Green, Low blue & extremely low red
Royal Gold 100 H0 Poor Very low red & Green, extremely low blue
Supra 800 H0 Poor Good green, very low red & blue
Two slide films were tested in the unhypered condition, but processed with either standard or
push+2 E-6 chemicals. The slides were scanned on the same scanner as the negative film tests,
however the comparison with color negative film is an eye-ball comparison. The relative
comparisons of the two films with each other are sensitive and accurate. Both 35mm and 120 roll
tested
push+2 both films. Both sizes tested
the same.
Fuji Provia400 push+2 Good/Great Very even colors for > 17 min (short are more B&G)
Fuji
Provia400 std develop Good Very even colors, ¼ stop less
red than E200+2
Kodak E200 push+2 Good Very low blue, good red and green
Kodak E200 std develop Good (-) Very low blue, good red and green, red like Provia std
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